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MT. ADAMS - ADAMS GLACIER ROUTE
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| Adams Glacier. Photo by Chris LeDoux |
The Adams Glacier Route is one of the more technical routes on Mt. Adams. It is
suitable for intermediate climbers with roped snow climb experience. It is a
serious but esthetically pleasing climb, with spectacular views and challenging
terrain. If you have done several of the standard Cascade glacier routes
and want to step it up a notch, this is the perfect climb! It is a four day trip,
with a one-day clinic prior to the climb. Hike and climb 15 miles round
trip with 7,700' elevation gain. We can do this climb on weekends!
Rates:
1 person: $1,800 (Includes two guides), 2 persons: $1,000 each,
3 persons: $800 each, 4-6
persons: $700 each. Includes guides, transportation, climb permits, climbing
equipment, meals, tents.
Scheduled Climb: June 20-23, 2008
(Dependent on access - snow and road conditions, and weather.
)
We can arrange a trip at your convenience given availability of
guides. Sign-up using our
secure form, give us a call at (877) 965-5100, or send an e-mail.
THE SCHEDULE:
DAY ONE
We pick-up in Portland starting about 6 AM. We’ll drive to the Trout Lake Ranger station to sign-in, then on to
Killen Creek Trailhead
(4,600’). We’ll load up, and head
up to High Camp (6,900’). After setting-up camp and having a snack,
we’ll discuss the climbing clinic for the next day and preview the skills
that will be covered. Then, while your guides prepare dinner, you
can relax, enjoy the amazing scenery, and prepare your summit packs for the clinic.
DAY TWO
6 AM wake-up and breakfast with departure around 7:30 AM to the nose of the
Glacier for our climbing clinic. Skills covered will include:
glacier travel, route-finding, steep snow and ice
climbing, and crevasse rescue skills. We'll use our glacier travel skills
to return to camp. The Adams Glacier is a steep climb with significant
exposure to ice and rock fall when it warms, so we need to be able to move
efficiently and quickly. Lead guide will have the right
to make the final determination regarding each party member's fitness or ability
to participate in the climb.
Return to camp for dinner and preparation for the next
day's climb.
DAY THREE
1:30 AM wake-up and breakfast with departure around 3:00 AM. Climb the
Glacier and cross over the summit plateau to the actual summit. Backtrack
and descend the rocky, but non-technical North Ridge Route. We should summit by
11 Am and to
return to camp by 4:00 PM. Then we relax and have some refreshment until a great dinner is
served. Post climb is a great time to savor the summit and enjoy the incredible views.
DAY FOUR
Have breakfast, break camp and return to our vehicle
by Noon. We should be back to Portland by early evening.
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| Adams Glacier with North Ridge (descent route) to the left of
the Glacier. Photo by Chris LeDoux |
THE APPROACH
From the Killen Creek trailhead, we hike up to cross the
the Pacific Crest Trail and continue to High Camp. Incredible views of the Adams
Glacier, Mt, Rainier, and Goat Rocks.
THE CLIMB:
This is a technical, steep climb with significant exposure
to ice and rock fall when it warms. We're getting an early start, but we also
need to be able to move efficiently and quickly. Once we reach the summit
plateau, it's a 0.5 mile slog to the true south summit.
From the summit, we retrace our steps and then move east to
access and descend the non-technical North Ridge. It's rocky and could
have some snow patches. Then it's a traverse across snow fields back to
camp.
EQUIPMENT LIST
CLOTHING for possible rain, snow, wind and cold nights:
Climbing/plastic boots with lug soles (need to be able to hold crampons); gaiters;
2 Pair Wool or polypropylene socks with liners; Thermal underwear (wool, polypropylene, or
equivalent); Warm sweater, fleece jacket, or wool shirt; Warm pants (Not jeans!); Gore-Tex
(or other water-resistant material) Parka; Wind pants/climbing bibs; Mittens or gloves
with shells; another pair of gloves; Sun hat; Balaclava or warm hat and scarf/neck gaiter, shorts/T-shirt for the
hike in and out, Clean clothes to change into at the vehicle.
TEN ESSENTIALS - IN SUMMIT PACK
Whistle; Map of area: (I have the USFS Mount Adams Wilderness, 1988 and Mt. Adams
East & West, USGS, 1970); Compass; Headlamp (with extra batteries and bulb
or another light); Extra food and clothing (wool socks, more warm things); Sunscreen
and lip protection; Pocket knife; Lighter or matches in waterproof container and firestarter; First aid kit (No drugs or medicines that will make you drowsy or
dizzy while on the climb.)
OTHER
Large Backpack (needs to be big enough to hold your
gear and your share of group gear and food) for hike to High Camp, Summit Pack, Ice ax*, Crampons*,
Climbing Harness*, Climbing Helmet, at least two
Locking Carabiners*, one short and one long Prussik*, Trekking Poles*, Liquids
(at least 3 qts.); Cup, Bowl, and Spoon; Handkerchief; Toilet paper; Crazy Creek Chair or small
insulation pad for sitting on (attach it to your pack), Sunglasses/goggles, Camera and
Film/ memory card, Camp Shoes.
CAMPING GEAR
Sleeping bag and pad
Oregon Peak Adventures can make arrangements for you to rent any needed equipment.
Please call if you have any questions.
*We provide any climbing equipment you may need, ropes
and anchors, tents and all cooking gear.
For
Equipment Recommendations click here.
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