Mazama Glacier
The Mazama Glacier Route is the second most popular route on Mt. Adams. It is suitable for intermediate climbers and requires roped travel with ice axes and crampons. It is a three day trip. Hike and climb 12 miles/20km round trip with 6,000'/1,829m elevation gain. We can do this climb on weekends!
We can arrange a trip at your convenience given availability of guides. Sign-up using our secure form, give us a call at (866) 936-0910, or send an e-mail.
Client Mark van Wagner said -
"The trip on Mt. Adams was awesome. John did a great job as guide and the summit day was my best day in the mountains ever".
THE SCHEDULE:
We pick-up in Portland starting about 6 AM. We’ll drive as close as we can get to Bird Creek Meadows parking lot (5,700’) on the Yakima Nation. We’ll pay the fees, load up, and head up to Sunrise Camp (8,300'/2,530m). After setting-up camp and having a snack, we’ll cover glacier travel techniques. Then, while your guides prepare dinner, you can relax, enjoy the amazing scenery, and prepare your summit packs for the climb. We’ll turn-in after dinner for a 5 AM wake up and breakfast, with departure around 6 AM. We should summit by Noon and to return to camp by 4:00 PM. Then we relax and have some refreshment until a great dinner is served. Post climb is a great time to savor the summit and enjoy the incredible views. Day three we’ll get up about 7 AM, have breakfast, break camp and return to our vehicle by Noon. We should be back to Portland by early evening.
THE APPROACH
From the parking lot at Bird Creek Meadows, we hike westerly up trail T20 following the ridge between Bird Creek and Hellroaring Creek drainages. From the end of the trail, we head up through loose rock and snow to Sunrise Camp at the northwest end of the Ridge of Wonders where the Mazama and Klickitat Glaciers divide.
THE CLIMB:
This is a technical climb to extent that we’re traveling on a steep glacier and need to be roped up. This is highly pleasing steep climb with amazing views and a variety of terrain. We will move at comfortable steady pace. Please be in good enough condition to enjoy the climb.
From Camp we work our way west onto the Mazama Glacier. Here we rope-up to travel on the Glacier. Toward the top of the Glacier, we do a rising traverse left to the 11,657'/3,554m South (False) Summit. Here we unrope and cross a relatively level area and then make the final grunt up to the 12,276'/3,743m Summit. After some time (how long is generally determined by weather conditions) on the summit, we’ll descend to the false summit area, tie back-in, and retrace our route back down the Mazama Glacier.
EQUIPMENT LIST
CLOTHING for possible sun, rain, snow, wind and cold nights:
Climbing/plastic boots with lug soles (need to be able to hold crampons); gaiters; 2 Pair Wool or polypropylene socks with liners; Thermal underwear (wool, polypropylene, or equivalent); Warm sweater, fleece jacket, or wool shirt; Warm pants (Not jeans!); Gore-Tex (or other water-resistant material) Parka; Wind pants/climbing bibs; Mittens or gloves with shells (2 pair); Sun hat; Warm hat, shorts/T-shirt for the hike in and out, Clean clothes to change into at the vehicle.
TEN ESSENTIALS - IN SUMMIT PACK:
Whistle; Map of area; Compass; Headlamp/Flashlight (with extra batteries and bulb or another flashlight); Extra food and Clothing (wool socks, more warm things); Sunscreen and lip protection; Pocket knife; Lighter or matches in waterproof container and firestarter; First aid kit (Please let us know if you carry drugs or medicines that will make you drowsy or dizzy.)
OTHER:
Large Backpack for hike to Sunrise Camp, Summit Pack, Ice ax*, Crampons*, Climbing Harness*, at least two Locking Carabiners*, one short and one long Prussik*, Trekking Poles*, Liquids (at least 2 ½ qts.); Cup, Bowl, and Spoon; Handkerchief; Toilet paper; Crazy Creek Chair or small insulation pad for sitting on (attach it to your pack), Sunglasses/goggles, Camera and Film/ memory card, Camp Shoes.
CAMPING GEAR:
Sleeping bag and pad, Bowl, Cup, and Spoon. A book might be nice
Oregon Peak Adventures can make arrangements for you to rent any needed equipment. Please call if you have any questions.
*We provide climbing equipment, tents and all cooking gear.
For Equipment Recommendations click here.
Price includes guide(s), transportation, climb permits, climbing equipment, meals, tents.