Boots:  
For snow climbs - Koflach VivaSoft plastic double boots.  (Replaced by the Degre).  Plastic boots don't get wet, are warm, and usually are very comfortable.  Wear them when you're mostly going to be in snow.  They also are compatible with step-in crampons.

For trail hiking with more than a day pack- LaSportiva Thunder GTX
For trail hiking with a day pack- Asolo FSN95

Most any good brand will work.  They use different lasts so you may have to try on several before one works for your foot shape.  Note that they usually feel as good as they are going to feel in the store, so don't expect the boot to feel better once it's "broken-in".  I prefer all leather boots for backpacking.  They provide ankle and arch support and enable you to slosh through streams and muddy sections without getting your feet wet.  Sturdiness is especially important if you're hauling a heavy pack.  The more flexible sole makes these boots more comfortable to wear on the trail but require strap-on crampons for snow or ice travel.

Socks: 
Liners - Wrightsocks Thin polypropylene liner socks help wick away sweat and minimize blisters by preventing your skin from rubbing directly on your outer socks and boot.  Most any non-tube style polypropylene liner sock will work ok.  Wrightsocks has an extensive line of liner socks, most of which are double layered to minimize blisters.  I have several pair that I wear for veryday and dress socks.  
Outers with Climbing Boots - Thorlo Backpacking. 
Outers with Hiking Boots - SmartWool Hiking Medium cushion.  Again most any good brand works.  They are a blend of wool and synthetic.  You're looking for padding as well as warmth and durability.

Gaiters: 
Summer - Outdoor Research (OR) Rocky Mountain Low Gaiters.  These keep rocks and scree out of your boots.  They're uncoated, so aren't hot, but don't help much if you're in the wet.
Winter/Snow - Outdoor Research (OR) Crocodiles Gore-Tex Gaiters.  Easy to put on and take off, they keep the snow out and your boots drier and warmer.  The Crocodiles come in many sizes. The plastic mountaineering boots are bigger than leather ones, so make sure you try on your gaiters with the boots you are going to wear, before you leave town..

Underwear: 
Skin Layer - Patagonia Capilene.  Synthetic materials wick perspiration away from your skin so you're not having to burn fuel to evaporate it.  The Capilene products are expensive, but feel very good and last forever.  The eXtend line from Mountain Hardware are also good.  They have added a silver compound to discourage microbe growth and to reduce odor build-up.   That said, you can get very inexpensive garments by Wickers from Sierra Trading Post and they work fine as well.

I start with a synthetic T-shirt and briefs.  If you are carrying a big pack that concentrates the weight on your hips, you will want to make sure that the briefs extend below the area of contact and that seams aren't running along there.  Otherwise, you'll get raw rubbed spots.  For the next layer I like a long-sleeve zip-T top and lightweight bottoms.  I usually don't wear the bottoms during the day unless it's very cold.  I will wear a long-sleeve top and bottoms and liner socks in my sleeping bag at night, as much to keep the bag clean as for warmth.  Keep the clothing you aren't wearing in a waterproof bag.

Insulation Layer: 
Bibs - Lowe Alpine Ninja bibs.  For cold conditions, I really like wearing fleece bibs.  They don't have the opening between pants and shirt and are more comfortable and warm.  I don't see bibs in the current Lowe Alpine offering, but the Powerstrech bibs from Mountain Hardware and Marmot look very good.  Make sure the openings on the bibs match up with the openings on your shell layer so you don't have to take things completely off to perform biological elimination.

Jacket - Synthetic Primaloft Hoody Sierra Designs Chockstone Jacket. This is light, compact, very warm, and does very well without a shell since it is water and wind resistant.  Even wet, it has sufficient loft to still provide some insulation and it dries very quickly.

Jacket - Fleece Mountain Hardware Windstopper Tech Jacket.   Fleece jackets are very toasty and with the windstopper layer, you don't have to put on a wind shell if a breeze comes up.  Unless it's really cold, you'll mostly be wearing the jacket on breaks or in camp.
The North Face Denali Jacket - I've had my TNF Denali Jacket since 1994, and I mostly live in it during the winter.  It's very durable and I really like the pockets.

Pants - Fleece Mountain Hardware Windstopper Tech Pant.  These are just great.  They have full side zips so you can put them on and take them off without having to take your boots off.

Outer Bottoms: Sport Hill XC Pants.  These are a tightly woven synthetic material which is breathable but also wind resistant.  During the summer, I'll just wear these for bottoms if it's too cool for shorts.  In the winter, I'll wear long underwear bottoms under these and add layers as necessary.

During the summer, I usually wear nylon convertible pants with zip-off legs.  REI will usually have them on sale.

Wind and Moisture Outer Shell: 
Parka - Marmot Alpine Jacket.  I probably have the last one produced.  It's very similar to the Marmot Shadow jacket. Your parka is your first and most important element of shelter.  It provides protection from the wind and, for some period of time, from the wet.  I haven't had one that wouldn't eventually leak.  They do better when new, even if you do the treatments.  The 3-layer Gore-Tex is more durable and lighter than the 2-layer versions.  The Gore-Tex concept is that water molecules are kept out while water vapor molecules can escape through the fabric.  It works to some extent, but features like pit zips and full front zips for venting are more important.  The hood should be attached and enable you to see when you turn your head.  If you wear a helmet, the hood should fit over it.  Your parka will spend a lot of its time going in and out of your pack and needs to very durable.  Make sure you try on your parka with all the stuff you think you will be wearing under it to ensure that it fits comfortably.
Bibs - The North Face Mountain Bib.  I also like to looks of the Mountain Hardware Ethereal FTX Bib. For cold conditions or if I know I'm going to be on or in the snow a lot (like when I'm down hill skiing), I like bibs for an outer layer.  TNF version has full-length side zips and the "kangaroo pocket" in front is very handy.  I also like the chest panel and the suspenders.  Again, make sure that the openings match with your layers underneath.
Rain/Wind Pants - REI Alpine Lakes Pants.  These are lightweight and are more water resistant than waterproof, but are fine for summer outings.  The Marmot Driclime Pant and Mountain Hardware Tempest SL Pant are similar and have the always important full-side zips.
Windshirt - Marmot DryClime Windshirt.  This is a light shell with a thin but amazingly warm layer of the DryClime fabric.  It wicks moisture away and protects you from the wind.  It's perfect for when you don't want to carry your parka, but want to have something in case a cool  breeze comes up. Very nice to stuff into your tiny rock climbing pack.

Headwear: 
Hat For Cold- The North Face Windstopper High Point Fleece Hat. this is my favorite warm hat.  Windstopper layer keeps the wind out and the Durable Water Repellency (DWR) treatment keeps it from getting soaked for a while. It also has ear flaps and a chin cord so I can flip it back when my head is getting too warm.  Keeping your head insulated is essential to staying warm.  I also use a thin Fleece Balaclava which comes down around my neck.  It's good for wearing under a helmet and for sleeping.
Hat For Hot- REI Ball Cap with Mesh Sides. This is mostly for keeping the thin spot on my head from getting sunburned and for eye shade.  The sizing strap unclips making it easy to attach to a strap when you're not wearing it.  I also have a ball cap with a flap on the back.  The longer bill in front keeps the rain from getting on your glasses and the rear flap provides rain and sun protection, especially on snow.
Headband. If you sweat a lot, this will let you enjoy the experience.

Handwear: 
REI Polypro Liner Gloves and Outdoor Research Modular Gore-Tex Mitts With Fleece Liners.  I also have a pair of OR fleece gloves with a windstopper layer.  Mitts are much warmer than just gloves.  I usually wear gloves until my hands start getting cold and then put the mitts on immediately.  It's a lot easier to keep them warm than to rewarm.  The chemical hand warmer packets are nice.  Put them in between your liner glove and the overmitts.  Tying loops of small cord in your clothing/tent/pack zipper pulls will make it easier to use them without having to take off your mitts.  Always carry at least one extra pair of liner gloves in a waterproof bag.

MAP:  
USGS 7.5 Minute Series (Topographic), Geo-Graphics, Green Trails, and USFS Maps. Topographic maps are essential.  You may need all four versions to have the most current trail information.  Carry in a waterproof pouch/Ziploc bag.  If you are going to be going to various places in your state, the Topo CDs are a great value. Know how to use them.  Take our Land Navigation class to learn how.

Compass:  
Silva Ranger 515CL.  Most work well.  Desired features are a clear base plate and declination adjustment.  If you're using a GPS, UTM roamer scales are also good.  If none of this means anything to you, take our Land Navigation class.

Sunglasses and Sunscreen:  
Prescription Glacier Goggles and PhotoSun Single Vision Glasses.  I buy the glacier goggle frames at REI and get the lens from my optician.  Get the coatings that make them very dark and provide complete UV protection.  Side shields are essential on glaciers and snow fields.  I need bifocals to read, but I hate hiking with them.  The photo sun glasses are great off of the snow and at night.  I have flexible metal frames which are, so far, indestructible.  I also carry a pair of bifocals for reading in camp and as a back-up.  Carry a little repair kit with replaceable screws that fit your glasses.  A lot of folks have problems with their contact lenses, especially in gritty, windy conditions.
Aloe Gator SPF 40 Total Sunblock and Banana Boat SPF 30 Sunblock Lip Balm.  Getting fried in the mountains is no fun. I especially hate it when strips peel off of my lips and start bleeding.  Going to be in the cold? Tie the tube  on a string (drill holes in the top) and hang it around your neck to keep it warm enough to squeeze out.

I currently am using the Anthelios "S" SPF 30 by LaRoche-Posay.  It contains "Meroryl" which blocks both A & B UV rays.  It also comes in an "L" version, SPF 60, which is close to a total sunblock.  It is available from Feelbest.com in Canada.

Extra Food:  
Cliff Bars and Trail Mix.  I am also using the "Gu" Energy Gel packets when a extra boost is required.

Extra Clothes:  
See Above. What if you were injured and had to spend to night out waiting for rescue?  We also always carry a long ensolite pad and a lightweight bivy bag.

Headlamp/Flashlight:  
Petzl Zipka Plus Headlamp.   I carry the Zipka in my fanny pack.  It uses LEDs and is very light and goes for 10s of hours on three AAA batteries.

First Aid Supplies:  
Depends on your level of training.  American Red Cross Standard First Aid is the minimum level.  Wilderness First Aid or Wilderness First Responder classes are very good.  Check out http://wmi.nols.edu/ for available classes.  All Oregon Peak Adventures lead guides are certified Wilderness First Responders.

Matches/Lighter:  
Matches in Plastic Waterproof Container and a Bic Butane Lighter.  I carry both in my fanny pack.  Sign-up for our Wilderness Survival class to learn more.

Knife:  
Leatherman Pocket Survival Tool in Fanny Pack and  a small Victornix Classic Swiss Army Knife in Pocket.  Don't try to take them on an airplane!

Whistle:  
Plastic without a ball.  (The ball can theoretically freeze-up) I've attached it to my compass.  Three blasts is the traditional emergency signal.

Altimeter Watch:  
Avocet Vertech II Alpin.  I've had three of these since 1994.  It's smaller and lighter than many and is reasonably accurate.  The alarm isn't very loud, so you also will need to have a small alarm clock for alpine starts. You have to send it in every two of three years for a new battery and recalibration.   The customer support is very good.  They will offer you a good deal when they think it's best to replace it.  Don't dive this watch- it makes the altimeter go crazy (They were nice enough to replace it, even though I did tell them it had been down to 60')

Communications:  
iPhone - Just got it (1/2007)  Haven't tried the phone out in the backcountry, but it's nice also having the PDA functions and an iPod all in one unit.  The battery life isn't so good, so you need to be focused on keeping it charged up.  In the backcountry I will carry a solar recharger if I'm going to out several days.

Motorola Talkabout FRS Radios- The Family Radio Service radios do not require a license to use and they are inexpensive and work well.  The T6530 model also has the weather frequencies, which has helped make go/no go decisions on occasion. There are many brands and varieties available.

Backpack:  
EXPEDITION - McHale Alpine Bayonet.  This is a huge (7,0000 +cubic inches) custom pack Dan McHale made for me for my first trip to Denali in 1994.  It's a totally bombproof pack that's amazing comfortable even with big loads.  I've never had a problem with it.  More info on Dan McHale is at http://www.mchalepacks.com/. 

DAY Climb- Lowe Alpine Attack 60.  This is a very comfortable pack.  At about 3,600 cubic inches, it carries all the gear needed for a day climb or going light overnight trip. 

There are many great packs made by many companies.  My bias is have one bigger than what I need so that it's easier to find things and you don't have to cram your stuff into it.  I'll gladly trade an extra pound of weight for a comfortable carry.  Make sure yours is comfortable, durable and big enough to carry what you need.  Essential features for climbing include: comfortable waistbelt, sternum strap, adjustable shoulder straps, wand pockets, side straps, and ice axe loops. Try it out with an actual load before you go on a multiple-day trip.  Feeling pain and thinking dark thoughts about your backpack is not the best way to enjoy your trip.

Fannypack:  
I carry mine almost all the time.  I put all the stuff in it that I need on a regular basis like sunscreen, mosquito repellant, etc., and survival items in case I lose my pack.  It needs to be durable and large enough to hold the stuff you need.

Water bottle:  
I carry a pint bottle with a sport top in a holder attached to my backpack strap.  It's good to be able take a drink without taking off your pack.  Hydration systems like Camelback are handy, but you need to be attentive to prevent a disaster.  In cold conditions use insulated water bottle parkas from Outdoor Research.

Trekking Poles:  
Leki Super Makalu.  I like the angled handles and the shock absorption feature.  Trekking poles are a delight.  Especially when you are carrying a heavy pack over rough terrain.  They provide stability, protect your knees, and increase your efficiency since you're able to use your arms to propel yourself.  Make sure you have snow baskets when travelling in the snow.

Tents:  
Three Person/Four Season- Moss Little Dipper  I have used this on Denali and extensively in the Pacific Northwest. It weighs about 12 pounds, is durable, very roomy for three people (54 sq. ft. floor space and 14 sq. ft vestibule), and exactly where you want to be when the wind and rain/snow go wild.  Mountain Safety Research (MSR) has purchased Moss and, with some redesign, are now marketing these tents under the MSR brand.  For the Little Dipper equivalent, called the Prophet, see http://www.msrcorp.com/tents/prophet.asp

Mountian Hardware Trango 3.1- Very sturdy, roomy, and easy to set-up.

TWO Person/Four Season- Mountain Hardware Trango 2  I have used this extensively in the Pacific Northwest.  It weighs about 9 pounds, it is durable, roomy for two people (41 sq. ft. floor space and 16 sq. ft of vestibule space), and is also confirmed to be a very good shelter from a storm.

TWO Person/Three Season- Sierra Designs Baku 2  This is a great light tent for non-snow camping. It weighs 4.9 pounds, is sturdy and roomy for two people (28 sq. ft. floor space and 14 sq. ft of vestibule space).  It's single wall construction.  I haven't been in a rain storm with it, but it holds up to wind well.  It's not so good for ashy/dusty places like St. Helens, since the mesh inter-walls allow grit to accumulate inside the tent.

Use a ground cloth or tent footprints to protect the bottom and carry snow stakes for winter camping.

Sleeping Bags:  
Expedition bag- Feathered Friends Ptarmigan  (Rated for -25°F/-31.7°C; weighs about four pounds.).  Had it since 1994.  It's been to Denali three times, Nepal twice, and anytime I expect it's going to be cold like winter camping.  Never had a cold night in it. Bags from other manufacturers with similar ratings will likely work as well.  The smaller person you are, the lower temperature rating you will  need.  Get a long version as you will need to sleep with lots of stuff to keep it from freezing.  Using a vapor barrier liner is good when it's very cold.  Put your wet things inside the liner with you and they will dry out without soaking your bag.

three season bag- Marmot Helium  (Rated for -15°F/-9°C. Weighs 1 lb. 13 ozs. and stuffs to about the size of a loaf of bread).  It's warm and light because it uses 850 fill down.  That means that 1oz. of the down expands to fill a volume of 850 in.³  Generally, cheaper equates to a heavier and bigger bag for the same temperature rating.

Sleeping Pads:  
Therm-a-Rest- I have several of these open cell pads.  The happy combination of a foam pad and an air mattress,  they are warm and comfortable.  My current favorite is the ProLite 4 which is also light at 1 lb. 8 oz., and compact (rolls-up to 11 x 4.8 in. regular size).  They can be punctured and eventually do leak (after years of use).  The Cascade Design folks have replaced the two or three I have sent to them at no charge.

closed cell pads- These are inexpensive and do not have air to leak out, so they are good back-ups to your open cell pad.  Essential to also have one of these when snow camping.  We also carry one on all backcountry trips in case we have to bivouac or package up an injured person.  You can also cut them up to use for splinting materials.  These are usually found as stacks of blue pads, or you can get fancier ones such as the Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest series.

Camp Chair:  
CRAZY CREEK ORIGINAL CHAIR - These fold and sort of roll up for carrying and provide a padded seat with back support in camp and on breaks.  It's an essential for me.

Stoves:  
White Gas/Multi-Fuel- MSR DragonFly  This is a great stove.  You can actually control the flame - from blowtorch to simmer. It is, however, very loud!  I almost always take two stoves on trips.  Since we actually cook meals, we use one to cook and one to heat water for hot drinks.  Plus, for those infrequent occasions when one of the stoves decides they're not going to function, you still have a heat source.  Bring a stove board if you're snow camping.

CANISTER STOVE- Jetboil The Jetboil system is truly a major advance in stoves.  Very light and highly efficient.  When I was just boiling water, I've had one 3.53 fl. oz. canister last for five days.  The Jetboil folks are constantly adding accessories, and now have a 1.5 liter pot available.  It requires a pot stabilizer and stove support add-ons, which are a good idea anyway.  Another accessory is a French press for making coffee.

To be continued....................