Gear Recommendations
You're probably aware that people who spend a lot of time in the mountains are usually gear freaks. When you're many mile from the trailhead, you are totally dependent on your equipment and are on a constant quest to improve and upgrade. Having the right clothing and equipment is often the difference between enjoying your time in the backcountry or being miserable, much less surviving if conditions take a turn for the worst.
It is quite possible to spend a huge amount of money on the most expensive backcountry gear, or to spend very little and hope it makes it through the trip. (Many of the items I recommend by Mountain Hardware or Marmot may make your heart stop when you see the prices. But they do last forever and are often on sale.) The best course is to buy what is necessary for your activity and provides the best value. The following recommendations are an attempt to assist you if you're just starting out. These recommendations are not the last word, but are based on my 30+ years of climbing and backpacking all over the world. These are the things I currently use or would likely buy as a replacement. I don't receive any compensation from any of the recommended manufacturers, so these are strictly my personal biases .
HOW TO BUY
Sales are very good and all outdoor providers have them at regular intervals. The trick is know what you want and watch for it, especially if you are upgrading. Reading reviews in magazines like Climbing, Rock & Ice, and Backpacker are good ways to learn about what's new.
WHERE TO BUY
REI is the place I usually start. They have stores throughout the USA and a great website, www.rei.com. They offer significant discounts through www.rei-outlet.com/ and they have sales at two to three month intervals. They also rent equipment. Another great website is www.sierratradingpost.com/. They offer closeouts and seconds, often at amazing discounts. Another mail order source with a very broad selection is Campmor, who also has a web site at www.campmor.com.
In the Portland, Oregon area, good stores are The Mountain Shop (excellent rental selection), Oregon Mountain Community ( also do rentals), and ClimbMax. Next Adventure offers used and new things also.
JOE'S STUFF
Here are my personal recommendations for the Pacific Northwest area:
CLOTHING
Boots:
For snow climbs - Koflach VivaSoft plastic double boots. (Replaced by the Degre). Plastic boots don't get wet, are warm, and usually are very comfortable. Wear them when you're mostly going to be in snow. They also are compatible with step-in crampons.
For trail hiking with more than a day pack- LaSportiva Thunder GTX
For trail hiking with a day pack- Asolo FSN95
Most any good brand will work. They use different lasts so you may have to try on several before one works for your foot shape. Note that they usually feel as good as they are going to feel in the store, so don't expect the boot to feel better once it's "broken-in". I prefer all leather boots for backpacking. They provide ankle and arch support and enable you to slosh through streams and muddy sections without getting your feet wet. Sturdiness is especially important if you're hauling a heavy pack. The more flexible sole makes these boots more comfortable to wear on the trail but require strap-on crampons for snow or ice travel.
Socks:
Liners - Wrightsocks Thin polypropylene liner socks help wick away sweat and minimize blisters by preventing your skin from rubbing directly on your outer socks and boot. Most any non-tube style polypropylene liner sock will work ok. Wrightsocks has an extensive line of liner socks, most of which are double layered to minimize blisters. I have several pair that I wear for everyday and dress socks.
Outers with Climbing Boots - Thorlo Backpacking.
Outers with Hiking Boots - SmartWool Hiking Medium cushion. Again most any good brand works. They are a blend of wool and synthetic. You're looking for padding as well as warmth and durability.
Gaiters:
Summer - Outdoor Research (OR) Rocky Mountain Low Gaiters. These keep rocks and scree out of your boots. They're uncoated, so aren't hot, but don't help much if you're in the wet.
Winter/Snow - Outdoor Research (OR) Crocodiles Gore-Tex Gaiters. Easy to put on and take off, they keep the snow out and your boots drier and warmer. The Crocodiles come in many sizes. The plastic mountaineering boots are bigger than leather ones, so make sure you try on your gaiters with the boots you are going to wear, before you leave town..
Underwear:
Skin Layer - Patagonia Capilene. Synthetic materials wick perspiration away from your skin so you're not having to burn fuel to evaporate it. The Capilene products are expensive, but feel very good and last forever. The eXtend line from Mountain Hardware are also good. They have added a silver compound to discourage microbe growth and to reduce odor build-up. That said, you can get very inexpensive garments by Wickers from Sierra Trading Post and they work fine as well.
I start with a synthetic T-shirt and briefs. If you are carrying a big pack that concentrates the weight on your hips, you will want to make sure that the briefs extend below the area of contact and that seams aren't running along there. Otherwise, you'll get raw rubbed spots. For the next layer I like a long-sleeve zip-T top and lightweight bottoms. I usually don't wear the bottoms during the day unless it's very cold. I will wear a long-sleeve top and bottoms and liner socks in my sleeping bag at night, as much to keep the bag clean as for warmth. Keep the clothing you aren't wearing in a waterproof bag.
Insulation Layer:
Bibs - Lowe Alpine Ninja bibs. For cold conditions, I really like wearing fleece bibs. They don't have the opening between pants and shirt and are more comfortable and warm. I don't see bibs in the current Lowe Alpine offering, but the Powerstrech bibs from Mountain Hardware and Marmot look very good. Make sure the openings on the bibs match up with the openings on your shell layer so you don't have to take things completely off to perform biological elimination.
Jacket - Synthetic Primaloft Hoody Sierra Designs Chockstone Jacket. This is light, compact, very warm, and does very well without a shell since it is water and wind resistant. Even wet, it has sufficient loft to still provide some insulation and it dries very quickly.
Jacket - Fleece Mountain Hardware Windstopper Tech Jacket. Fleece jackets are very toasty and with the windstopper layer, you don't have to put on a wind shell if a breeze comes up. Unless it's really cold, you'll mostly be wearing the jacket on breaks or in camp.
The North Face Denali Jacket - I've had my TNF Denali Jacket since 1994, and I mostly live in it during the winter. It's very durable and I really like the pockets.
Pants - Fleece Mountain Hardware Windstopper Tech Pant. These are just great. They have full side zips so you can put them on and take them off without having to take your boots off.
Outer Bottoms: Sport Hill XC Pants. These are a tightly woven synthetic material which is breathable but also wind resistant. During the summer, I'll just wear these for bottoms if it's too cool for shorts. In the winter, I'll wear long underwear bottoms under these and add layers as necessary.
During the summer, I usually wear nylon convertible pants with zip-off legs. REI will usually have them on sale.
Wind and Moisture Outer Shell:
Parka - Marmot Alpine Jacket. I probably have the last one produced. It's very similar to the Marmot Shadow jacket. Your parka is your first and most important element of shelter. It provides protection from the wind and, for some period of time, from the wet. I haven't had one that wouldn't eventually leak. They do better when new, even if you do the treatments. The 3-layer Gore-Tex is more durable and lighter than the 2-layer versions. The Gore-Tex concept is that water molecules are kept out while water vapor molecules can escape through the fabric. It works to some extent, but features like pit zips and full front zips for venting are more important. The hood should be attached and enable you to see when you turn your head. If you wear a helmet, the hood should fit over it. Your parka will spend a lot of its time going in and out of your pack and needs to very durable. Make sure you try on your parka with all the stuff you think you will be wearing under it to ensure that it fits comfortably.
Bibs - The North Face Mountain Bib. I also like to looks of the Mountain Hardware Ethereal FTX Bib. For cold conditions or if I know I'm going to be on or in the snow a lot (like when I'm downhill skiing), I like bibs for an outer layer. TNF version has full-length side zips and the "kangaroo pocket" in front is very handy. I also like the chest panel and the suspenders. Again, make sure that the openings match with your layers underneath.
Rain/Wind Pants - REI Alpine Lakes Pants. These are lightweight and are more water resistant than waterproof, but are fine for summer outings. The Marmot Driclime Pant and Mountain Hardware Tempest SL Pant are similar and have the always important full-side zips.
Windshirt - Marmot DryClime Windshirt. This is a light shell with a thin but amazingly warm layer of the DryClime fabric. It wicks moisture away and protects you from the wind. It's perfect for when you don't want to carry your parka, but want to have something in case a cool breeze comes up. Very nice to stuff into your tiny rock climbing pack.
Headwear:
Hat For Cold- The North Face Windstopper High Point Fleece Hat. this is my favorite warm hat. Windstopper layer keeps the wind out and the Durable Water Repellency (DWR) treatment keeps it from getting soaked for a while. It also has ear flaps and a chin cord so I can flip it back when my head is getting too warm. Keeping your head insulated is essential to staying warm. I also use a thin Fleece Balaclava which comes down around my neck. It's good for wearing under a helmet and for sleeping.
Hat For Hot- REI Ball Cap with Mesh Sides. This is mostly for keeping the thin spot on my head from getting sunburned and for eye shade. The sizing strap unclips making it easy to attach to a strap when you're not wearing it. I also have a ball cap with a flap on the back. The longer bill in front keeps the rain from getting on your glasses and the rear flap provides rain and sun protection, especially on snow.
Headband. If you sweat a lot, this will let you enjoy the experience.
It's a lot easier to keep them warm than to rewarm. The chemical hand warmer packets are nice. Put them in between your liner glove and the overmitts. Tying loops of small cord in your clothing/tent/pack zipper pulls will make it easier to use them without having to take off your mitts. Always carry at least one extra pair of liner gloves in a waterproof bag.
Essentials
MAP:
USGS 7.5 Minute Series (Topographic), Geo-Graphics, Green Trails, and USFS Maps. Topographic maps are essential. You may need all four versions to have the most current trail information. Carry in a waterproof pouch/Ziploc bag. If you are going to be going to various places in your state, the Topo CDs are a great value. Know how to use them. Take our Land Navigation class to learn how.
Compass:
Silva Ranger 515CL. Most work well. Desired features are a clear base plate and declination adjustment. If you're using a GPS, UTM roamer scales are also good. If none of this means anything to you, take our Land Navigation class.
Sunglasses and Sunscreen:
Prescription Glacier Goggles and PhotoSun Single Vision Glasses. I buy the glacier goggle frames at REI and get the lens from my optician. Get the coatings that make them very dark and provide complete UV protection. Side shields are essential on glaciers and snow fields. I need bifocals to read, but I hate hiking with them. The photo sun glasses are great off of the snow and at night. I have flexible metal frames which are, so far, indestructible. I also carry a pair of bifocals for reading in camp and as a back-up. Carry a little repair kit with replaceable screws that fit your glasses. A lot of folks have problems with their contact lenses, especially in gritty, windy conditions.
Aloe Gator SPF 40 Total Sunblock and Banana Boat SPF 30 Sunblock Lip Balm. Getting fried in the mountains is no fun. I especially hate it when strips peel off of my lips and start bleeding. Going to be in the cold? Tie the tube on a string (drill holes in the top) and hang it around your neck to keep it warm enough to squeeze out.
I currently am using the Anthelios "S" SPF 30 by LaRoche-Posay. It contains "Meroryl" which blocks both A & B UV rays. It also comes in an "L" version, SPF 60, which is close to a total sunblock. It is available from Feelbest.com in Canada.
Extra Food:
Cliff Bars and Trail Mix. I am also using the "Gu" Energy Gel packets when a extra boost is required.
Extra Clothes:
See Above. What if you were injured and had to spend to night out waiting for rescue? We also always carry a long ensolite pad and a lightweight bivy bag.
Headlamp/Flashlight:
Petzl Zipka Plus Headlamp. I carry the Zipka in my fanny pack. It uses LEDs and is very light and goes for 10s of hours on three AAA batteries.
First Aid Supplies:
Depends on your level of training. American Red Cross Standard First Aid is the minimum level. Wilderness First Aid or Wilderness First Responder classes are very good. Check out http://wmi.nols.edu/ for available classes. All Oregon Peak Adventures lead guides are certified Wilderness First Responders.
™ and other chips work pretty well also.
Wilderness Survival class to learn more.
Knife:
Leatherman Pocket Survival Tool in Fanny Pack and a small Victornix Classic Swiss Army Knife in Pocket. Don't try to take them on an airplane!
Whistle:
Plastic without a ball. (The ball can theoretically freeze-up) I've attached it to my compass. Three blasts is the traditional emergency signal.